One size fits all Pitch Gauge!

• what you need
• Parts
• Assembly
  • Main body
  • V clamps (2 off)
  • Pointer
  • Final bit!!

what you need

4 mm diameter Carbon Fiber Tube: 2 off 50mm and 1 off 98mm lengths 1mm thick Carbon fiber or stiff plastic card: 110 x 130mm 10 x 10mm square plastic or Aluminium rod: 2 x 22mm length 1 off 3x7 flanged bearing (standard Piccolo main shaft bearing) 1 E-Zee servo connector or small wheel collet with 2mm hole 2mm diameter carbon fiber rod: 101mm length 1 M3 screw - min 6mm long Piece of clear sticky back plastic: 110 x 130 2 M2 screws - 6mm long Medium Cyano and 5 minute Epoxy

Parts

First step is to print out the plan. You can download it here. Ensure it has not been distorted by the printer. Use the printed guide rules to check both directions.

Parts A: (2 off)
Take the 10x10 square ally or plastic rod and cut to 22mm. Drill 4mm holes as indicated ? 12mm between centers. This is one of the most important parts so take care that the holes are true and parallel. Drill a 1.6mm hole and tap to M2 perpendicular to the upper hole on each block. This is to insert the locking bolts into. If using a nylon type plastic you may just be able to wind the bolts in without tapping.

Part B: (2 off)
Cut from scrap of 1mm carbon /plastic sheet. Chamfer 1 edge to 45 degrees

Part C: (2 off)
Cut out from plan and stick on scrap of 1mm carbon /plastic sheet. Cut outline, then Chamfer 1 short edge to 45 degrees. From the other end, file a slot as indicated, keeping the file at a 45 degree angle so as to be parallel with the other end.

Part D: (2 off)
Take a 50mm length of 4mm carbon tube and file a 45 degree cut centrally in the top to form a ?V? cut out.

Part E: (1 off)
Cut 4mm carbon tube to 98mm long. Using a Dremel cut off wheel or similar cut 1mm slot 48mm long through 1 wall only! Align the slot centrally in both axis.

Part F: (1 off)
Cut 2mm carbon rod to 101mm long then file end to point.

Part G: (1 off)
Take the 1mm carbon fiber or plastic card and glue the paper template of the main gauge to it. Cover with sticky back plastic to protect, and then carefully cut around the edge and remove inner part. Carefully Remove the paper and plastic above the dotted line (so that it can be glued later) leaving the dotted line as a guide. Drill a 7mm hole at the uppermost part just below the dotted line where indicated by the cross hairs.

Part H: (1 off)
This can be made but it?s far easier to buy a 2mm wheel collet - it is purely a weight to keep the needle pointing down!

Part I: (1 off)
Again, can be made or just buy a wheel collet and adapt. If buying a whee collet make sure it has a 3mm hole and a M2 grub screw. Drill the thread out of the grub screw with a 2mm drill.

Assembly

Main body

Take parts E and G. test fit parts first! Push G into the slot on tube E, ensuring that the dotted line on the printed sheet lines up with the outer wall of the tube. Once satisfied remove and drizzle medium CA (cyano) in the slot on part E, then carefully inset part G ? again ensure the dotted line is touching the outer wall of the tube evenly all the way along.

Push fit the bearing into the hole in the upper part of G, carefully adding a couple of small drops of CA around the flange to hold in place.

Smear some epoxy around the lower holes on both parts A, then push onto tube E - one each side, till flush with the end. Place flat on a surface and support the lower edge of G so that it is parallel. Leave to cure.

V clamps (2 off)

Hold part D lightly in a clamp with the ?V? cut uppermost. glue 1 part B and 1 part C into the groove using CA so that the chamfered edges but together. Once set add some Epoxy around the back of the V clamp and tube for strength.

Pointer

Insert and glue the pointer (F) into the 2mm hole in I. If you have made part I and tapped the M3 thread in the hole, this can now be bolted to the guage through the bearing with an M3 bolt. If you have used a wheel collet you will need to use a slightly longer bolt and secure with a nut. Once in place slide the smaller wheel collet onto the pointer till just above the graduations. If the collet rubs on the back plate take it off and grind down the back of it to allow clearance.

Final bit!!

Align one V clamp with the support tube (E) and carefully click the lower half of the clamp in place ? if it is too tight don?t force it, remove and sand a little material off the sides of the slot in the clamp, but not so much as to allow it to flop around! once clipped over slide into the upper hole in A, sliding it all the way home and add the M2 lock screw ? repeat with the second one!!

Job done, bobs? your Aunties husband and all that.